Words Cam Benty/Photos Robert Shinn

Oh, the woes of transforming a classic muscle car into a cool, modern, and electronically advanced piece of machinery. After all, consider the fact these monster machines are at least 40 years old today, making them brittle and sun damaged . . . just to pick two of the more obvious challenges. The standard technology features we take for granted in today’s cars were long in the future, and at the time, we were happy to have such “caveman” advancements such as dual point distributors, transistorized ignition, or power windows.

Our 1971 Pontiac Firebird Formula was a solid example of everything that today’s car builders face when upgrading to modern systems. When we last left our vehicle, the Pontiac was moving closer to the goal line, the drivetrain, suspension, cooling, fuel, clutch, and exhaust systems completed. But at this point, we ran into another issue: how to upgrade the badly worn dashboard and instrument panel. In addition, we needed to convert our dashboard to digital inputs, rather than the analog systems used back when the Gen 2 F-Body was new.

Our Howell EFI conversion loom was designed to mate the Chevy Powerparts LS3 525-hp engine currently residing under hood. Extra length had been added to the loom to allow for the placement of the battery in the trunk, and the in-tank fuel pump from Tanks Inc. had been wired and prepped. Luckily, Robert Shinn of Mark’s Custom Rod Garage in Huntington Beach, California, was well versed in such integrations.

The decision was made to upgrade the instrument panel with some form of electronic dashboard that retained the gauge layout of the stock Firebird. Most important was that the gauges would mate with the Howell wiring loom and report all engine functions without issue. In addition, we wanted all of the standard engine information read outs to be present, including not only engine temp, but voltage, oil pressure, and, of course, fuel level.

Our ’71 Pontiac dashboard looked its age with well-worn gauges, bezels, and dashboard fascia. On top of that, the factory forgot to add some of the most basic engine instrumentation, so it was our charge to transform the instrument panel into a respectable read out.

After a review of the Classic Industries catalog for some of the basic items we needed to repair the electrical system (a convenient as well as effective place to shop, their impressive showroom under a mile from Custom Rod Garage), we spoke with Ed Navarro, an old friend and well-placed executive within the Classic Industries system. He was more than happy to help.

Intellitronix LED
Direct Replacement Dash

LED read out dashboards not only deliver a clear read out of key engine data, but in our case, exhibited some of the Pontiac’s original 270-degree needle sweep styling found with the original dashboard. The gauge package also allowed us to use the same woodgrain dashboard fascia found in the original Firebird Formula (with the addition of a pair of holes that we cut in the area where the Firebird logo was previous affixed). Using replacement gauge bezels in these new holes cut for the auxiliary gauge pack also matches the original layout. Adding the gauge holes is an option, but for a perfect factory appearance, purchasing a two or four holes (A/C cars) dashboard fascia with correct bezels would have been an even better solution.

After carefully peeling off the protective covering, the supplied machine screws and spacers pin/stands are installed at the perimeter of the instrument panel lens.

A length of heat shrink tubing is slipped (not supplied) over the wires, and a heat gun is used to shrink it around the wires to gather them and protect them from damage.

Any time wires have to pass through an opening in the sheet metal of the vehicle the wires should be protected from wearing against the exposed edge. Grommets were added to two of the factory holes, and then the components are slipped together while feeding wires through the selected holes in the housing.

Prepare the secondary gauge package in similar fashion to the larger main gauge cluster. When they are finished, the two panels should look like this.

The instrument cluster plug on the under dash harness needs to be removed from the main dash wire harness. The plug can be cut off of the harness, but by first removing the terminals from the plug and snipping off the factory terminals at their base, the maximum length of the unwrapped or loomed wires is preserved, making it easier to separate and crimp new terminals on the wires. A special tool is used here, but a narrow flat blade screwdriver will also do the trick.

Wiring up the gauge cluster is really straightforward and only requires basic wiring tools. A basic wire stripper/crimper tool is available at any automotive parts store for under $20. We elected to add Molex wire connection plugs for serviceability and a factory appearance to both the main and auxiliary gauge panels (available at your local electronic supply stores for just a few dollars).

The terminals used with the Molex plugs require a ratcheting crimper with the correct dies for effectively crimping barrel style terminals. This style crimper is also available at most automotive parts stores for around $30. Electrical knowledge of the subject is not necessary. If you can read a schematic, you will find this to be a simple addition.

The Intellitronix gauge system is configured for mounting in the factory location, using the gauge pod that originally contained the factory cluster.  Many cars of this age can have brittle instrument panel bosses that are cracked or stripped. If this is the case, then a new base from Classic Industries is probably in order. We recommend you carefully review all parts within the dashboard before assembly. As you might expect, there is no need for dashboard bulbs since the dash is LED — remember?

Sources: American Auto Wire, americanautowire.com; Classic Industries, classicindustries.com; Custom Rod Garage, customrodgarage.com; Intellitronics Corp, Intellitronix.com.