Death Valley Days

Chasing Prime Rib and Prototypes in the California Desert

Words/Photos: Richard Truesdell

Through the years, I’ve made many visits to Death Valley National Park in California. More often than not, it’s been to photograph top-secret prototypes, cloaked in black camouflage designed to conceal the details of the cars we’ll see at an auto show in the future. I’ve had my share of scoops, all while dealing with temperatures that have reached as high as 129 degrees. Our purpose behind this route are to show you some historic locations and some awesome prime rib dining. Top that off with a road map for your own car spy photography adventure and you have a full day, for certain. Buckle up and turn on the air — you are going to need it.

Our route for the day (or couple of days, if you like) took us from Los Angeles up through Death Valley and within a whisker of the Nevada border. If you want any added fun, Las Vegas is not far away.

Our route for the day (or couple of days, if you like) took us from Los Angeles up through Death Valley and within a whisker of the Nevada border. If you want any added fun, Las Vegas is not far away.

Get Going

For this trip, we started in Corona, California, where I usually meet up with a colleague who enjoys these kinds of adventures. Our vehicle of choice for this tour was a specially built 2010 Camaro modified by Kenne Bell and tuned to deliver 750 ready-to-romp horses, thanks to a KB supercharging system. On the roads we were to travel, the California Highway Patrol keeps close tabs on travelers, so extended high-speed runs can be risky. The Camaro ran flawlessly and was more than able to handle the temperatures we encountered on this trip. Here’s an obvious tip for all those to take this challenge — remember to bring along plenty of water, especially in the summer.

Normally, our first stop is up Interstate 15 through the Cajon Pass for breakfast at the Summit Inn. Unfortunately, the Blue Cut fire destroyed that Route 66 landmark on August 16, 2016. Due to local support and a number of car show event fundraisers, the rebuild is going well, so plan on stopping there come Spring 2017.

On the way through the Cajon pass, we spotted this cool ’62 Chevy drag wagon that was for sale. The price was a bit steep, but it was up to current competition standards. Ready to race as we say!

On the way through the Cajon pass, we spotted this cool ’62 Chevy drag wagon that was for sale. The price was a bit steep, but it was up to current competition standards. Ready to race as we say!

After breakfast, the route soon turns from freeway to mostly two-lane blacktop taking US395 north towards Ridgecrest. However, if I’m out the door early, I’ll take a shortcut into the park through Trona, a town that time has literally forgotten. Since fuel is frightfully expensive at the two stations within Death Valley National Park, this is where I prefer to top off my tank.

Driving north out of Trona, there’s the Trona-Wildrose Road, the quickest way into Death Valley. As you enter into the valley after negotiating some sharp curves, you’ll see the virtual ghost town of Ballarat. It was nearby that cult leader and mass murderer Charles Manson once lived, leaving behind a truck and some now-sinister graffiti.

Near the end of the Trona-Wildrose Road, you actually cross into Death Valley National Park (you’ll see a sign off to your right as a landmark) before coming upon the stop sign at CA-190. Make a right turn on to CA-190 and you’ll head up a long hill to Towne Pass. Next, drive down more than 5,000 feet in elevation to Stovepipe Wells, where gas and food, albeit limited, are available. It was at the gas station in Stovepipe Wells that I snapped my very first factory prototype back in 2000. It was actually what I would call a test mule, the soon to be released 2002 BMW 7-Series E65, mechanicals cleverly cloaked under the bodywork of the outgoing E38 model.

What’s interesting about this stretch of CA-190, from Towne Pass down into Stovepipe Wells, is it is one of the few places on earth where the road drops more than 5,000 feet in just over 18 miles. Most noteworthy is that in the summertime, temperatures can reach 120 degrees, yet it’s just three hours from major metropolitan areas — the outskirts of the Los Angeles Basin, as well as Las Vegas.

This makes it an ideal place to test automotive cooling systems under conditions few of us will ever encounter. This is why it’s not unusual to see prototypes and test mules towing heavily laden U-Haul trailers up and down the grade, like the Mercedes-Benz ML and the Jeep Grand Cherokee we spotted recently.

Deeper into the Desert

This image gives you a perspective of just how low you can go. The faint white lettering at the top of this mountain signifies SEA LEVEL.

This image gives you a perspective of just how low you can go. The faint white lettering at the top of this mountain signifies SEA LEVEL.

Continuing northeast on CA-190, the road takes a sharp turn, going southeast until you reach Furnace Creek, the second place within the confines of Death Valley National Park where you can buy fuel. The problem is it’s usually twice the cost of buying it anywhere else in California. Now, paying nearly $5 a gallon might seem cheap to visitors coming in from Europe, but it seems terribly expensive to those of us living on this side of the “pond.”

Furnace Creek holds the distinction of being the hottest place on earth. On the afternoon of July 10, 1913, the United States Weather Bureau recorded a high temperature of 134 degrees (56.7 °C) at Greenland Ranch, what is now Furnace Creek. The hottest I’ve ever encountered here is 129 degrees during a 2001 trip to Death Valley. Unfortunately, I got a flat tire in that heat, which without gloves was impossible to change. Thankfully, I was able to use my cell phone in the emergency call-only mode to summon AAA road service to change the tire at no charge.

I always try to time getting to Furnace Creek between noon and 2 p.m. Why? Because that’s when the test drivers of the prototypes and test mules eat lunch if their drive route that day has them within the confines of the park. I can’t tell you how many times I’ve sat in my car waiting for the test drivers coming back to their cars after lunch, peeling back the car cover (prototypes that are two years out not only wear heavy camouflage, but are under cover whenever parked and unattended) to see something that is new.

This historical image shows remnants of the SR-71 Blackbird crash that occurred back in 1969. I have found a few shards of that high-powered jet on my tours through Shoshone.

This historical image shows remnants of the SR-71 Blackbird crash that occurred back in 1969. I have found a few shards of that high-powered jet on my tours through Shoshone.

The Low of It

Heading south out of Furnace Creek, take the first right hand turn south toward Badwater Basin. Badwater holds the distinction of being the lowest elevation, 282 feet below sea level, in North America. When you are standing in the visitor center, you can look across the road and see a sign that says “Sea Level,” giving you some idea of exactly how low you are.

Continuing south on Badwater Road, you will encounter some challenging curves and switchbacks before reaching the intersection of CA-127. This intersection is noteworthy, as on the night of December 18, 1969, a super secret SR-71 Blackbird crashed at this location. At the time, the area was sealed off while most of the remains of the aircraft were recovered. But if you look east from the intersection, you will see some power poles with no wires. This is where part of the SR-71 crashed.

Prime Time

Continue south on CA-127 about 1.6 miles and you’ll see the Crowbar Cafe and Saloon on your left, across from the Chevron station. What’s amazing are the almost universal four-star (out of five) reviews for the Crowbar Cafe and Saloon, as posted on websites from Yelp to Trip Advisor. It speaks to how good the food is here. So, if you’re sightseeing in Death Valley, testing a top-secret prototype, or simply driving north or south on CA-127, you won’t do better than the Crowbar Cafe and Saloon for three hours in any direction.

In all the times I’ve eaten at the Crowbar Cafe and Saloon, I’ve had the prime rib more often than not. But, if you’re not up to 12 ounces of beef and want something lighter, I certainly can recommend the Reuben sandwich. It’s done classic New York-style with sauerkraut, not cole slaw (that’s served on the side), and is near perfect. Who would have thought one would find a spectacular Reuben on rye in the middle of the Californian desert?

Even with an early start, if one has had any success in chasing down test mules and prototypes during the day, by the time you’re finished eating dinner, it’s likely to be around 8 p.m. If driving back to Los Angeles or Las Vegas is more than you want to handle, try the Shoshone Inn. It has recently been remodeled and received mostly four- and five-star reviews from guests on both TripAdvisor and Yelp.

Home Stretch

From here, it’s about an hour south to Baker, where you can pick up Interstate 15 to Las Vegas going north or Los Angeles going south. If you’ve ever traveled on Interstate 15 between Los Angeles and Las Vegas (and been stuck in Friday night traffic going north or Sunday night traffic going south), you know what Baker is best known for . . . besides over-priced petrol. It’s home to the world’s tallest thermometer. Baker has a number of petrol stations with attached convenience stores, fast food, and, for a time, a Starbucks, which is now closed. That’s the fun part, compared to the drive back to L.A.

Before taking off for this adventure, make sure you check the internet to make sure the above locations are open and the roads are clear. In California, you can dial 511 on your phone to check with the CHP to ensure all roads are passable. In the winter, snow does fall at some of the higher elevations, so they can be blocked or require chains. Regardless, you will see some breathtaking scenery on this run — and if you have a cool car like ours, well that just makes is all the better.

Have fun!

About the author

PPN Editor

Power & Performance News is the source for news, tech and products that help you get more performance from your vehicle. If powertrain performance projects and hardcore technical content are your interest, Power & Performance News is the publication designed for you. Our acclaimed editorial staff covers all aspects of engine and driveline upgrades with a mission of presenting information that is both interesting and achievable for the “average car guy”.
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